Dosa days

You thought a dosa was just one thing, didn’t you? Live and learn It’s not even called a dosa where I come from, if you really want to know. We call it a dosai. The global menus that are trending these days called them ‘crisp rice crêpes from...

This may be your finest chicken

What happened when I tried to create a dish from an elusive food memory Somewhere in Kolkata is a restaurant that starts and ends with an A, with M in second or third position. No, not America. Maybe Armenia. Maybe not. It’s in a crowded part of town, probably near...

You should try her pumpkin hummus

You should try her pumpkin hummus Meet May Kaidee, ex-street food vendor, now queen of veggie Thai veggie A dancing girl in an traditional Thai headgear and a gold brocade costume comes tripping down the restaurant’s stairs. Moving among empty tables, she finally...

With a little bit of leek

With a little bit of leek Add a tarragon twist to a soup everyone’s made before I have only a little respect for the leek. Creamy colored member of the onion family, about as fat as a really fat sausage, tapering into clusters of flat deep-green leaves. When...

Kidney beans made simple

Like any self-respecting Sikh, Inderjit Singh’s distinguishing quality is that he himself doesn’t know what he’ll say next. This makes it something of a challenge to extract a recipe for anything from him. As I discovered shortly after I broached the subject of his...

Oh, crab!

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