Dosa days

Dosa days

You thought a dosa was just one thing, didn’t you? Live and learn It’s not even called a dosa where I come from, if you really want to know. We call it a dosai. The global menus that are trending these days called them ‘crisp rice crêpes from...
The spud and the dud

The spud and the dud

“YOU’RE A NOTHING!” said the potato to the puri. “A cipher.” And thus started the end of a durable Indian fast food romance. The puri sank a little lower into his plate, and a little steam escaped from a crack. This was certainly not the...
This may be your finest chicken

This may be your finest chicken

What happened when I tried to create a dish from an elusive food memory Somewhere in Kolkata is a restaurant that starts and ends with an A, with M in second or third position. No, not America. Maybe Armenia. Maybe not. It’s in a crowded part of town, probably near...
You should try her pumpkin hummus

You should try her pumpkin hummus

You should try her pumpkin hummus Meet May Kaidee, ex-street food vendor, now queen of veggie Thai veggie A dancing girl in an traditional Thai headgear and a gold brocade costume comes tripping down the restaurant’s stairs. Moving among empty tables, she finally...
With a little bit of leek

With a little bit of leek

With a little bit of leek Add a tarragon twist to a soup everyone’s made before I have only a little respect for the leek. Creamy colored member of the onion family, about as fat as a really fat sausage, tapering into clusters of flat deep-green leaves. When...
Kidney beans made simple

Kidney beans made simple

Like any self-respecting Sikh, Inderjit Singh’s distinguishing quality is that he himself doesn’t know what he’ll say next. This makes it something of a challenge to extract a recipe for anything from him. As I discovered shortly after I broached the subject of his...

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